- This topic has 1,597 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 12 hours, 58 minutes ago by
.
-
Posts
-
We have an old cast iron waste line from the basement to the street. I used to be throughout the house but over the years as bathrooms were remodeled sections of it were removed because it rusted and failed. When I remodeled the second floor bathroom, I discovered that problem and had to replace all of the horizontal waste pipe. I know the vertical from the second floor to the basement had failed because he had been replaced with ABS. Since it had been replaced it made my replacement a bit easier. Anyway, so what I left is cast iron that runs from the back of the house out to the street along the interior basement wall. I plan to replace that 40′ of cast iron because it will make an awful mess when it fails. I’ll still have the problem of a possible break in the pipe between the house and the street main.
What I am considering, and this may work for you too, is having the cast iron from the house to the street relined. It’s a trenchless repair. Somehow, they roll out a membrane bladder through the pipe all the way to the street to reline it and block off any cracks or breaks. I’ll still have the cast iron out the street but then I replace the indoor cast iron with plastic using a Fernco coupling. I have a 4″ waste pipe so I believe they can do that. I don’t know if they can do the same for a bad pipe that is less than 4″ in diameter.
I found this description.
What is Cured In Place Pipe Lining (CIPP)?
Cured In Place Pipe Lining (CIPP) represents a trenchless repair technology that offers a streamlined approach to mending damaged sewer pipes with minimal excavation. This innovative method involves the insertion of an epoxy-saturated felt liner into the compromised pipe. The bladder inside the epoxy-saturated liner is then inflated and starts to cure in place, effectively creating a new, durable pipe within the old structure. The appeal of CIPP lies in its less intrusive nature, which eliminates the need for extensive digging, thus preserving the property’s landscape and existing infrastructure. Ideal for addressing moderate damage, CIPP stands out for its efficiency, providing a quick and effective solution that minimizes both downtime and disruption. CIPP delivers a durable repair option, extending the lifespan of sewer systems at a considerably lower initial cost.Our waste line does not go to the street. We have a septic tank and all the house waste flows to the septic tank. The pipes to that tank were a concrete pipe with 6-8 inch sections all fitting together. There is a metal pipe from the house to the concrete pipe. I wanted the guy to replace all that with the plastic pipe for the kitchen. He put in the sump so he didn’t have to dig so much. But the sump goes to a pipe that makes it to the septic tank, I just don’t know exactly how it is routed. But I think it connects to the other pipe he layed based on the direction of where that sump pipe goes. But I don’t remember that being what happened when he did it. I mapped out the main house pipe and that is in a file. But he never really told me what he did on the kitchen side so I dont know what to do there. The problem is that the sump pipe comes above ground level from the sump and then goes underground. So I have to dig out that pipe to a point where water can fall into the septic tank. That’s a lot of digging. The kitchen outlet pipe is about a foot to 18 inches below ground level, so I have to go that far at the sump and then down and hope that the sump pipe can be reached easily at a point where it will allow the pipe to drain rather than backing it up. Honestly, I don’t have the energy but I need to figure it out this next year. I’m tired of clearing the sump of that oil/soap crap. Looks disgusting.
I asked a few outfits about trenchless piping and it does not involve a new run. It involves piping inside the existing pipe essentially making the pipe a bit smaller diameter than the original. That won’t really help me in this word.
mspart
On another note, my wife’s friend suggested we break into the water main and pipe the garden directly. That’s sounds like a great idea, but that pipe is from 1968 and I’m really not sure I want to break into it. Actually that would be a plumber breaking into it. The street is about 300 feet from the house so it is a long pipe. If it gets screwed up, that is a big repair bill word.
mspart
The trenchless bladder it a very thin walled epoxy based “balloon” that gets dragged through the pipe and then inflated and cured. It does reduce the inside diameter significantly. Since it’s a sink drain I’m assuming it’s not a 3 or 4 ” D run to the septic. I just don’t know if they make a bladder that small. The alternative is to jamb a smaller diameter pipe into the sewer line. I was told they would run a 3″ pipe inside my 4″ which should be okay since the sinks start at 1 1/4″ or 2″ and the toilets have 2 1/2″ connections then expend to 3″ and 4″.
As for tapping the incoming water pipe, is that legal? Doing that here would mean I’m by passing the water meter which is a no no. I’d have to close the street valve which takes a special key in this town and only the utility has them.
Tapping the incoming water pipe would be after the meter. So I think that would be ok to do. Right now we are running a couple of 100′ hoses to get water to the garden area. It is not the best, but it works and we maintain a fair amount of water pressure out there.
With trenchless, I thought they moved a pipe through the ground and got it to the destination. That’s not it as you said. I think my sink/dishwasher drain is a 3 inch pipe. I have to take up deck boards and squeeze in between the joists and sit in the muck and clear the sump of that junk. The last time I did it (a month ago or so), the sump pump was running ok and there was no buildup. I dump some enzyme to eat that stuff up. If I don’t do this job of getting it back to gravity fed, I will need a new pump next year. It is acting just a little funny and I will replace it or have it replaced next year. But I’d really like to get the situation fixed permanently. I keep thinking that is how it should be if we sell the house. Nothing was done with a permit but it was all done correctly to make it work. If I can get this thing gravity fed, then there will be no issues that I would have to disclose, it would be better than original word.
mspart
Pipe inside the pipe is one approach. The other is an epoxy coated fabric that is placed inside the pipe all of the way to the septic, then pressured inflating it against the existing pipe walls and cured with UV. They say it’s good for at least 30 years. Before they insert the fabric they clean out the inside of the pipe. They’ll run a camera through the existing pipe to see if there are any major breaks that have to be dug and repaired first.
That would be a good solution if my pipe was buried like it should be. But it is above ground coming out of the sump and then it goes underground. So the drain pipe is about 1 foot above ground before it goes underground. The original pipe was the concrete tiles that are fitted together. They failed so there is no original pipe anymore. We didn’t notice until we piped the dishwasher into that drain line. The old owners had it draining out the side of the house. We couldn’t understand that but I think they had this same issue. The kitchen sink alone just seeped into the ground. The dishwasher saturated the area. So no good. I just need to move the deck and dig like crazy word.
mspart
Hopefully the pipe is not too deep. Because of the freeze potential out here the sanitary pipes are at least 3 feet deep and often more.
One time at Band Camp
That’s to keep your whining ass shut. You want off this ranch, you got it. I’ll drive your ass to the train station myself.Hey Viratas – Nice to see you come around here.
Ryou – I’d have to look at the depth. I was guessing before but next summer when I might tackle this, I will definitely have to look at that.
mspart
Do you have any idea how deep the tank is from the surface. The sewer drain will be at the top of the tank. If you determine where the top of the tank sits you gauger how deep the pipe runs since it will be a straight line to the start at the house. If you can access the clean out cap and open it you can probably determine the depth of the tank top.
Woke up to 41F this AM. Wasn’t expecting that one. We were closer to 0F than we were to the 88F we had on Tuesday.
Hi Ryou,
I do not know how deep that is. That will be part of the work to do when I get started on this. I first need to know where the sump pump actually drains to. Does it go to the septic or does it tie in with the house main. I think it is the first but I have no idea how that is routed. I wish I could talk to this guy but he is flaky. I did try to contact him right after the work and he was unresponsive. So I’m not sure of anything. The only thing I am sure of is I want to get rid of the sump and have it be gravity fed like it is supposed to be word.
mspart
Great to be Around here
That’s to keep your whining ass shut. You want off this ranch, you got it. I’ll drive your ass to the train station myself.You should pop ion more often.
Tropical storm from the south moved in Saturday night. Its been raining ever since, 4″ so far. They forecast more tonight and tomorrow before it moves out.
That job would be a big enough but having the deck all around it just makes it a nasty one.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.